Located on the eastern shore of Lake Como, Varenna is a beautifully preserved village that feels like stepping into a postcard. Its narrow, pastel-toned alleys wind down to the water, where you’ll find cafés, artisan shops, and panoramic views framed by the Alps. Varenna’s charm lies in its serenity — quieter and more intimate than the neighboring towns of Bellagio or Menaggio — and its delightful combination of history, nature, and authentic Italian atmosphere. It has become very touristy during summer but in winter it is still the old quiet town where it’s possible to enjoy silence and peace. Curious to discover this little gem in a low season? Below you will find a slow itinerary for your weekend escape to this typical lake side town.
Start your stroll along the lakeside promenade – perfect for morning coffee with a view. In alternative you can take the romantic “Passeggiata degli innamorati” (the lovers trail), a scenic lakeside walkway where the mountains meet the water. Varenna’s historic center is compact and walkabl. Here you’ll naturally wander past the 14th-century San Giorgio Church, charming stone staircases and balconies adorned with flowers that reflect the town’s fishing-village heritage.
A short walk south along the shore brings you to the tiny hamlet of Fiumelatte, home to Sorgente del Fiumelatte — the source of one of Italy’s shortest rivers, whose milky waters are visible in the warmer months.
Exploring Varenna’s Highlights
Lakeside Gardens & Historic Villas
A must-see is Villa Monastero, with its enchanting botanical gardens stretching for nearly two kilometers along the lakefront. Once a medieval convent, today it features exotic plants, lakeside views and a museum housed in a historic villa that dates back to the 12th century. Nearby, the gardens of Villa Cipressi offer another scenic and tranquil spot worth exploring.
Venetian Alleys & Local Museums
Lose yourself in the village’s narrow lanes and discover charming corners — from boutique shops to local restaurants serving lakeside specialties — all surrounded by timeless architecture woven with stories of ancient life on Lake Como.
Wander through steep stone stairways draped in ivy, quiet archways that suddenly open onto sunlit piazzas, and pastel-painted houses stacked gently against the hillside. The historic heart of Varenna feels almost untouched by time, where fishing boats still bob along the waterfront and locals greet one another in the shade of centuries-old buildings.
Step inside the village’s intimate museums to uncover layers of regional heritage – from maritime traditions and silk craftsmanship to sacred art preserved in small churches and oratories. Visit nearby landmarks like Villa Monastero, where history, art, and botany meet along elegant lakeside gardens, or explore the medieval atmosphere of Castello di Vezio, located high above the village with sweeping views of the lake.
Every alley in Varenna invites you to slow down, have an espresso in a hidden courtyard or a freshly made pastry from a bakery. In winter, the streets are silent and empty so you will hear the soft echo of church bells across the water.
Vezio Castle (Castello di Vezio)
Situated above Varenna on a rocky promontory, Vezio Catsle is definetely a must visit place if you are here. Built in the late 11th to early 12th century, the castle once served as a crucial medieval watchtower, guarding the lake and the valley below while connected by defensive walls to the town beneath. Today it remains one of the most compelling reasons to hike above Varenna.
The castle is privately owned by the Greppi family from Milan but has been open to the public since the late 20th century, welcoming visitors to explore its restored tower and ancient ramparts. Inside, you’ll find exhibitions on local history, including displays on the Lariosaurus, an extinct sea reptile named after Lake Como, as well as medieval artefacts.
What makes a visit to Vezio particularly rewarding is the panoramic view: from the battlements you can see sweeping views over Lake Como, the peaks that cradle it, and neighboring towns across the water. On clear days, the sightlines stretch from Bellagio to Menaggio and beyond — a scene photographers dream of capturing. In winter the views are even more extraordinary as the surrounding mountains are often covered in snow.
Practical Info and how to get to the Castle?
The castle is is open every day between March and October and during the winter weekends. It’s often closed in bad weather so check the official website for the updated opening hours and ticket prices.
To reach it, follow a scenic 20–30 minute uphill trail from Varenna’s town centre through olive groves and hillside paths. The climb rewards you with hidden viewpoints along the way and culminates in the castle’s rugged courtyard. Alternatively, you can easily reach the trailhead from the Varenna-Esino railway station or by ferry dock, making it achievable even without a car.
Hiking Around Varenna
Varenna isn’t just about the village and the castle. It’s also a gateway to fantastic hikes with breathtaking lake views. Let0”s discover together some of the best itineraries in the area, generally suitable for all levels of fitness.
Itinerary 1: Castello di Vezio and Sentiero del Viandante Loop
Begin in the centre of Varenna and ascend to the Vezio Castle on the classic hillside trail. Once you’ve absorbed the views and explored the historic fortress, continue north along the “Sentiero del Viandante “- an ancient mountain path that traces the eastern shore of Lake Como through olive groves, terraces, and woodland. The trail is well signed so you should have no problems finding the right path. You can follow the trail back to Varenna or you can extend you walk and continue toward Bellano. The full loop to Varenna is around 8km. If you decide to make it longer and arrive to Bellano, it’s 2km more. From Bellano you can catch a bus or a taxi back to Varenna. Whichever way you will pick, the views are stunning along the whole trail.
Itinerary 2: Olive Grove to Fiumelatte
For a slightly easier yet still scenic option, choose the path starting along the lake in Varenna and leading toward Fiumelatte river source.
Starting from Piazza San Giorgio in Varenna, head south toward the multi-storey car park opposite Villa Monastero – a true jewel on Lake Como. Take some time to plan a visit to this eclectic villa, home to a museum, an internationally renowned conference centre, and a magnificent botanical garden stretching along the lakeshore.
Here you’ll find signposts directing you to the Fiumelatte Spring. Follow Via Roma uphill at a gentle incline to join the historic “Sentiero del Viandante”.
After passing the cemetery, continue up a short but steep staircase on the left. At the top, the true trail begins – a scenic path of about one kilometer running parallel to the lake, leading you to the source of the river. Once there, you can admire the Fiumelatte Cave, hidden among dense vegetation. Inside, a network of winding tunnels channels the stream outward before it plunges dramatically into the lake.
If you’d like to linger near the spring, you’ll find a small yet well-equipped picnic area by the river, complete with barbecue facilities. Alternatively, you can take a short detour of just a few kilometres to reach Baluardo, one of the most panoramic hiking routes along the Lecco branch of the lake.
From the spring, you can also walk back down to the village in about five minutes. From here, another breathtaking view opens up over Lake Como and Varenna — a small, privileged balcony where you can quietly watch the gentle flow of tourists below, accompanied only by the soothing sound of running water.
How to get there?
Varenna is great for a winter weekend escape if live or travel through the Nothern Italy. There is a direct train from Lecco and from Milan (just 1h) but it’s also ok to travel here by train from Como (no direct train – you have to change in Lecco).
In alternative you can also drive – in winter the roads are empty and you won’t have problems finding parking spot. However, if you are planning your trip for the summer months, it’s definitely a must to arrive by train.
Accommodation
Varenna offers a lovely range of places to stay, from charming lakeside hotels to intimate boutique properties or serviced apartments. Everyone will find a perfect solution in this little town. Varenna is ideal for a romantic getaway or a relaxing family break on Lake Como. Most of the hotels and apartments are within easy walking distance of the ferry, train station, and the lakeside promenade, with stunning views and classic Italian hospitality.
If you are looking for a boutique hotel check Hotel du Lac, situated right on the water’s edge, with romantic views of the lake and Bellagio across the water. Its waterfront location makes it a perfect base for exploring Varenna’s old town, taking boat trips, or simply enjoying sunset views from your room or terrace.
If you are traveling on a budget and looking for a truly local experience, head to B&B Fio&Gio – this simple, yet clean and central guest house has all you need for a relaxing weekend. The highlight is the owner Debora who will make you feel like a part of her family. Super recommended.
Take your time to explore the village’s gardens, plunge into its hiking culture, and let the beauty of Lake Como unfold at your pace. And for local insights or maps, stop by InfoPoint Varenna Turismo, where you’ll find friendly guidance on hidden corners and daily events.
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